1. Blade width and tension
2. Gullet size/teeth per inch
3. Blade tracking
a. Blade position on tire
b. Unique 'lean' of the teeth4. Feed rate
1. For a 14 inch saw, 1/2" blade should be enough. Crank up the tension and ignore the indicator on the machine. Look for 1/4 inch deflection with the guides backed off. I like the Wood Slicer from Highland Tools -- about $30 but worth every penny.
2. Three teeth per inch will run cool and allow for plenty of sawdust removal. A hot blade won't track.
3. Adjust the blade position on tire to get it cutting as straight as you can. Forward of center will cut to the left, back of center will cut more to the right.
Do test runs while resawing against a curved or single point resaw guide. You will get the exact angle the blade wants to follow. Then, switch from the single point guide to your fence set at that angle. If you see the face of your resawn plank bowed, tweak the tail of the fence to right or left just a smidgen to make the blade saw flat.
4. Avoid heat and don't rush it. Your eyes and ears will tell you what works. Push the last inch or two with wood, not your valuable fingers ;o)Here is another wrinkle, playing sawmill. Taking Birch firewood bolts and running them through the saw with an adjustable jig, gives some pretty nice mini-lumber suitable for making boxes and panels.
2. Gullet size/teeth per inch
3. Blade tracking
a. Blade position on tire
b. Unique 'lean' of the teeth4. Feed rate
1. For a 14 inch saw, 1/2" blade should be enough. Crank up the tension and ignore the indicator on the machine. Look for 1/4 inch deflection with the guides backed off. I like the Wood Slicer from Highland Tools -- about $30 but worth every penny.
2. Three teeth per inch will run cool and allow for plenty of sawdust removal. A hot blade won't track.
3. Adjust the blade position on tire to get it cutting as straight as you can. Forward of center will cut to the left, back of center will cut more to the right.
Do test runs while resawing against a curved or single point resaw guide. You will get the exact angle the blade wants to follow. Then, switch from the single point guide to your fence set at that angle. If you see the face of your resawn plank bowed, tweak the tail of the fence to right or left just a smidgen to make the blade saw flat.
4. Avoid heat and don't rush it. Your eyes and ears will tell you what works. Push the last inch or two with wood, not your valuable fingers ;o)Here is another wrinkle, playing sawmill. Taking Birch firewood bolts and running them through the saw with an adjustable jig, gives some pretty nice mini-lumber suitable for making boxes and panels.
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